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Mouth of the Columbia: Readers write in, and the Mouth responds



Published on March 16, 2017 6:50AM

The Kitchen sits at 1820 S. Roosevelt Drive in Seaside. Area designer and builder David Louis transformed Jeanne O’Donovan’s shed into a fully functioning kitchen.

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The Kitchen sits at 1820 S. Roosevelt Drive in Seaside. Area designer and builder David Louis transformed Jeanne O’Donovan’s shed into a fully functioning kitchen.

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The Kitchen’s muffuletta sandwich includes mortadella, salami, ham, mozzarella and provolone coated with an olive oil spread of finely diced green olives, garlic, celery, cauliflower and carrot.

Photo by Mouth of the Columbia

The Kitchen’s muffuletta sandwich includes mortadella, salami, ham, mozzarella and provolone coated with an olive oil spread of finely diced green olives, garlic, celery, cauliflower and carrot.

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As promised, here is a column of reader responses. I’d love to make this a semi-regular thing, so please, let’s stay in touch. Email me at mouth@coastweekend.com

Letters have been edited for length and clarity — and I haven’t left out disagreements. If you have one, send it in!

Best Breakfast

Dear Mouth:

I am always interested in your reviews, and in particular your review of the Readers’ Choice Awards. I am somewhat peeved that the “Big City” dominated the awards, not myself thinking that big equals great. Usually I am in agreement with your comments, or at least willing to be convinced. However I have some things to add to your remarks under the first category, “Best Breakfast.”

I am a fan of the Osprey and am glad you mentioned it. Being a Seaside resident I am usually attracted to breakfasting there. If you mention the Osprey, I should think you would mention the other breakfast on Avenue U in Seaside: Seaside Golf. It is at the other end of the avenue and breakfast spectrum, but I think just as good.

On the subject of breakfasts, I am from the old school where we went to work at 8 a.m. and had breakfast before that hour. I don’t think any breakfast mentioned opens before 8 a.m. Therefore I am going out on the limb and offering Patty’s Wicker Cafe, off Broadway on a short river walk north on the east bank of the Necanicum, as the breakfast champ. Patty opens her door, I think, at 6 a.m.

Thanking you for your kind attention. Very truly yours,



Mouth responds:

I am very much a night person, not an early riser. You don’t even want to know what time I like to go to brunch — err, I mean breakfast. Thanks for the tips, though. I’ll have to check out the Seaside Golf Course restaurant, which I believe has undergone some changes in recent months.

Owe you big time

Hi Mouth, I live in Portland but I spend a lot of time in Astoria. I read you as often as I can online.

Anyway, I enjoy your work and owe you big time! I had driven by The Kitchen in Seaside and saw her sign scores and scores of times. I was curious but never stopped. I read your review and finally stopped. Jeanne is a real kick. I like chatting her up as she works in her little kitchen. I always order one of everything she has for that day. I have never been disappointed.

Anyway, great work Mouth! Find me another Kitchen this year! Haha!

As for the best breakfast on the peninsula? 42nd Street Cafe. Oysters, scrambled eggs, potatoes, whole wheat toast and that great jam. Service is excellent. Lots of folks come in for waffles, hangtown fry or the beignets, but I always order the same thing. Why mess with perfect?!



Mouth responds:

There really is something charming about Jeanne and her small space at The Kitchen. I hope more entrepreneurs and restauranteurs take those kinds of creative chances in the future.

Reviews in Seaside

I think your column is great!

Have you ever reviewed the Gray Whale BBQ in Seaside?

Also, what about Norma’s? That place is packed, and I never hear about them winning any awards.




Mouth responds:

Noted. Anyone else have places they’d like to see reviewed?

Don’t forget The Stand

Hi Mouth!

I agree with your assessment of Carruthers. Great and unique food! Try the octopus appetizer. Top notch service! The mirrors made my friends and I think of Versailles. The place is noisy — but that’s not bad. Brings the restaurant to the level of cosmopolitan, which is a better description and better category than Fine Dining (in the Readers’ Choice Awards).

As for Wanda’s in Nehalem: I can never go past without stopping to purchase her wonderful nut tart. Perfect crust, not too sweet but tasty caramel. I try to arrange driving south to coincide with the hours they’re open.

For fish and chips I still enjoy Bowpicker, but several years ago I decided they had increased the sweetness of the fish batter, which I like less. So glad you mentioned Grizzly Tuna!

Mexican: You mentioned La Cabana de Raya and Tacos El Catrin. But how could you forget The Stand? I think the food at Raya is good, but the selection is limited when compared to The Stand. My only experience at El Catrin included a) ordering lengua (which I love) and being served something else. When I indicated I thought they’d brought me the wrong food I was told that they had run out of lengua so they substituted something else they thought I’d like (without asking me); b) the food is overpriced.

The Stand is fabulous! And inexpensive. I’m always looking for the best Chiles Rellenos. So good at The Stand that I can’t seem to order anything else! Battered and prepared the right way con una salsa fantastica y deliciosa.



Mouth responds:

Thanks — lots here. The charge that you were delivered different meat than what you ordered is serious and unacceptable. As for The Stand, I’ve been a time or two, and they’re on my list, but it drives me nuts that they’re only open until 5 p.m., closed weekends and only take cash.

A Seaview favorite

Rereading your replies to the Readers’ Choice Awards, we wish to certainly put in a very good word for 42nd Street Cafe and Bistro.

We have enjoyed consistently good breakfasts (also lunch and dinners) here. Our choices run from Pot Roast Hash to Jambalaya Omelette for my husband to Russian Vegetarian Scramble and the house-made Blueberry Waffle for me. We also enjoy the homemade Marionberry Consommé enough that we usually purchase several for gifts or to take back with us to the Black Hills of South Dakota.

42nd Street has been a favorite for us over 16 years. We cannot remember when we have last read a review of this fine restaurant. Hopefully you will change that. However, we know it is a favorite of ours along with others — locals and visitors.


Seaview, Wash./Rapid City, S.D.

Lack of barbecue

Dear Mouth,

I would hope by now you have heard about the barbecue place you reviewed Jan. 19 (Mericle’s Epic Eats). If not, may I enlighten you: It’s not there anymore. My wife and I went there this past Saturday, Feb. 12, so looking forward to a great dinner, only to find out from the bartender and a few of the patrons that they picked up and left in the middle of the night the week before! To make a long story short, it would be really great if you let your readers know about this. The barbecue joints in the area are scarcer than hens teeth, and when one pops up it’s a welcome change from our normal fare, which is getting boring. Ilwaco is a little trip from Warrenton, and to go all the way out there and get very disappointed was not fun.



Mouth responds:

That is a bummer — Mericle’s Epic Eats’ tender smoky meats were just delectable. But they may not be gone for good. According to their Facebook page, the Mericles plan to open a food cart on the peninsula soon. Messages were not immediately returned, so that’s all I know at the moment. I’ll certainly be keeping my eyes out, though.

Thanks to all who took the time to write in, and to those who just prefer to read. Again, if you’d like to get in touch, email: mouth@coastweekend.com


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