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The Mouth: Surfcrest Pizza unafraid of gluttonous ecstasy
The Mouth: Surfcrest Pizza unafraid of gluttonous ecstasy

Among aisles stacked with chips, soda and snacks, a scent of pizza arises from the rear of Surfcrest Market.

The smell of rising dough, however, is not exactly new at the Tolovana general store.

For years the shoebox-sized kitchen was the...

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The Mouth: Dining out on Thanksgiving? Feasts abound!
The Mouth: Dining out on Thanksgiving? Feasts abound!

In every year of my life but two, I’ve spent Thanksgiving at the home of either my parents or aunt and uncle.

Of the outliers, one came while visiting a girlfriend who was away at college. She and I were welcomed into the home of her dorm...

The Mouth: Area sports bar roundup
The Mouth: Area sports bar roundup

Few pastimes are more closely associated with food than football. And since it’s that time of year, we’re rounding up the best places on the coast to watch a game, and what to order while you’re there.

But first, what makes...

The Mouth: Dundee’s fare neither star nor benchwarmer
The Mouth: Dundee’s fare neither star nor benchwarmer

For sports fans, fall presents a veritable quandary. As the summer sun recedes into late October and early November, the big three American professional leagues perk up. For a short time, the NFL, NBA and MLB not only overlap, but offer compelling...

The Mouth: Hong Kong due for a spring cleaning
The Mouth: Hong Kong due for a spring cleaning

On Astoria’s northeast edge, the decades old Hong Kong Restaurant has settled into a bland bargain where portion is prized über alles.

Essentially, they deliver two insipid meals for the price of one decent one. Which is to say: your...

The Mouth: Salt Hotel & Pub sweats the details
The Mouth: Salt Hotel & Pub sweats the details

A stroll through the Port of Ilwaco is transportive. Cross from solid ground to the bobbing docks and you might as well be in an alternate dimension. Gaze upon the resting boats, marvel at the wonder and mystery of life at sea. It is at once romantic...

The Mouth: Just killer pizza at Avenue Q
The Mouth: Just killer pizza at Avenue Q

With rigorous, laser-like mastery of the basics, Seaside’s Avenue Q Pizza excels humbly.

For owner/operator Matt Kaffer — aka the “one man pizzeria” — the ethics of minimalism, reverence and austerity are...

The Mouth: Bye bye, Blackbird
The Mouth: Bye bye, Blackbird

After the check is paid and the last diners amble out, tables at Blackbird are re-set. Last Sunday, however, those refreshed place settings — the shining silverware, white cloth napkins, water glasses and so on — would no longer be...

The Mouth: Port of Call’s kitchen fails to deliver on menu’s promises
The Mouth: Port of Call’s kitchen fails to deliver on menu’s promises

In April, The Daily Astorian reported changes at the Port of Call Bistro & Bar. The plan: pivot from unsavory watering hole to wholesome eatery.

Florida-based owner Marvin James Sawyer hired Taz Davis to manage the transition. Overhauling...

The Mouth: Market meals embrace coastal smorgasbord
The Mouth: Market meals embrace coastal smorgasbord

Last week’s column highlighted farmers market purveyors. This week we turn to the food courts. There’s one at a each market. (For times and locations, see the sidebar.)

The best market meals take advantage of the smorgasbord of...

The Mouth: Get thee to farmers markets, lickety-split
The Mouth: Get thee to farmers markets, lickety-split

It was June. I bit into a freshly picked strawberry and to my tongue it was declared: “Summer has arrived.”

I didn’t find such stirring, evocative pleasure in one of those mealy, genetically modified monsters at the grocery...